Thread: Matt's shave journel

Well, one shave down!
Here are the details:

Equipment:
W.H. Morley & Son's Clover razor (shave ready, thanks again Wid)
Omega Boar Brush
Unknown Etsy brand soap my wife bought me
Ruprazor Filly Strop
Old unknown strop (leather and linen)

Pre-shave:
+/- 40 laps on the Ruprazor strop
I was more concerned with technique and no cutting of the strop then counting the strokes
Hot water saturation of my face
Face Lathered with the brush and soap

Shave:
I couldn't get a good angle in the mirror or feel comfortable trying to start at my side burn. So I started just inside of my sideburn on the cheek. With the cheek shaved I kept the same angle and moved to the side burn. When I attempted to start on my left side, with my non-dominate hand, I felt like a new born giraffe. But I managed to get through both the cheek and sideburn area. At this point I'm giddy as a school girl so I move on to my neck. Right side no problems, Left side a little awkward but no problem. Middle of the neck/throat no problems. So with no cuts, no pain, no nicks, no burn I decided to tackle my upper lip, and chin area. At this point my lather was drying out a little so I reapplied. I found that trying to use the mirror and shave my upper lip was awkward again but I managed my way through. The chin area took a bit of time but again I got through.

So one pass with the grain for the most part I didn't end up with any burn, nicks, or cuts. It went better then any shave I've ever had with a DE as far as damage to my face. I noticed one patch that I missed on the left side of my face under the jaw, above the throat if that makes sense. I re-lathered and finished up with my DE, getting a small nick near my adams apple go figure.

Post Shave:
Hot water rinse
CVS which hazel
Approximately 10 to 15 strokes on the linen of the old strop and then probably 20 on the leather part.
Ice/cold water rinse
Nivea Balm

It's really funny that a few short months ago I really hated shaving. Standing in line to pay an un-Godly amount for replacement Mach3 heads I decided to break out the old Gillette Tech again. I kinda found the "zen" so to speak in shaving, and now look forward to having a little me time. That transitioned to catching the straight razor bug, and finally enjoying the heck out of my first attempt with a straight razor. There is much to learn but I'm enjoying it.

Now for my one real question at this point:
On the right side of my neck and throat the hair grows chin --> ear. Should I be pursuing shaving WTG that way or just North to South for the time being? Or is there even really a way to shave chin --> ear WTG and ear-->chin with a straight razor? I haven't seen any one going those directions in all the youtube videos when shaving the neck.

Matt

man I hope my first shave goes that smoothly and i find with a de razor going diagonal xtg straight up then down works pretty well then i go atg at a steep angle both ways also so not directly atg but close to it good luck

I ment to add to the above that I plan on trying my best to keep this thread as a journal for a good while while I try to get my technique lined out and such. I usually shave about 4 to 5 days a week for work so the post will be spread out a little bit.

Bluerain I appreciate the reply. With my DE I can go WTG, XTG ear to chin, and then ATG and get a DFS if not BBS shave. I usually have a little burn, and a small nick or 2 on my throat.

Matt

Alright Shave 2

Same equipment as above, but used VDH soap from Walmart.

Pre-shave:
Prior to my shower I was working on my stropping, and placed several nicks in my Filly strop as seems to be custom for new guys. They've been cleaned up with a pumice stone.
Nice hot shower to soften the beard.

The Shave:
Managed 2 WTG(N->S) passes. Not a DFS or BBS but no nicks, no cuts, and no discomfort. I have a little redness at the base of my neck but that may be left over from my DE from yesterday.
Overall enjoyable and lots to learn.

Post shave:
Hot water rinse
Which Hazel
Cold water rinse
Nivea Balm

Had a new hand made/custom brush arrive today as well as 2 other razors. I'm going to try to stick with using just the Clover razor for the time being to keep as many variables out of it as I can.

Matt

[QUOTE]...Now for my one real question at this point:
On the right side of my neck and throat the hair grows chin --> ear. Should I be pursuing shaving WTG that way or just North to South for the time being? Or is there even really a way to shave chin --> ear WTG and ear-->chin with a straight razor? I haven't seen any one going those directions in all the youtube videos when shaving the neck.[QUOTE]

Can I say that's like the Hold Grail question of straight razor shaving? Seriously. When you have technique, prep, honing etc pegged, what's left is your question. In my opinion, given a good edge, good prep, good technique, getting up at each hair exactly ATG is the key. Given the posts I've read, irregular hair growth is a real factor. A straight is a long edge, in my opinion, unless you're a trumpet player or a gridiron play with a neck wider than your jaw, if your hair grows perpendicular to your jawline, you just can't fit the length of a straight in there comfortably to get those hairs ATG. I guess you could use the toe, but that's fraught with danger. I think that's why some guys use a DE as a touch up. Makes sense. I think you can get pretty good at getting those E to W and W to E hairs on the neck and corner of the jawline, but I think it's very much related to the ultimate shave to get them ALL.

PS are you posting in the SOTD thread? You should post in the SOTD thread; it's a little quiet at the moment...

Originally Posted by carlmaloschneider

Can I say that's like the Hold Grail question of straight razor shaving? Seriously.

PS are you posting in the SOTD thread? You should post in the SOTD thread; it's a little quiet at the moment...

Why beat around the bush, me I go straight for the holy grail. I do appreciate you answering the question though, your explanation makes a lot of sense. Of course at this point I'm lucky to get a WTG pass accomplished and look half presentable afterwards.

I'll make an effort to get into the SOTD thread today or tomorrow. I usually shave when I get off of work(graveyards) so I have plenty of time but today I'm fairly beat down so shaving will have to wait until I wake up.

For my next question: How good of a shave can one expect to get going just WTG in one or two passes? Once I got accustomed to my DE I would do a 3 pass WTG XTG and ATG and end up with a good shave but probably never achieved BBS. And sometimes when I pushed out to my 3rd, ATG, pass I'd butcher my lower neck. At my current skill level with a straight I don't expect greatness but would like to know when I hit the point where WTG is about as good as it'll get.

Matt

Matt

Where I can't comfortably fit in an XTG pass I use a diagonal/scything stroke. There are just some places I cannot do the traditional strokes.

Bob

Shave #3

Gear:
Ruprazor Strop
Old Linen/Leather Strop
Etsy Soap
W.H. Morley & Sons Clover razor
New hand made/custom silvertip brush. Knot is 24mm, Loft if 50mm and its full of awesome.

Prep:
30ish strokes on the Ruprazor Filly strop. Another nick on it just one this time. I need some more practice.
Hot shower

Shave:
I made some rookie mistakes today, and I know better. From getting out of the shower, and making lather I didn't re-wet my face. Lather felt a little dry going on but I pushed on, and the first WTG pass wasn't all that great. I finally drew blood, but not bad at all. I had a small bump on my lower left neck that I don't know if it was an ingrown hair, or pimple or what but I took the bump off. Nothing bad at all, which hazel, and Nivea balm cured it. Also I went over some spots more then once, and without lather on the spot. This I know is a no no but I couldn't stop my self. I took a breath after the first pass, evaluated, and drove on the the second pass.

Second pass:
I knew I had to re-wet my face, and lathered well. The second WTG pass went well. Afterwards I noticed I had a patch of stubble that I'd missed on the left side of my face just under the jaw line, and above my neck if that's clear as muddy water. I re-lathered that spot and went over it again. Everything cleaned up nice and I started my post shave.

Post shave:
Warm water rinse
Which Hazel
Nivea balm
30ish Laps on the Linen strop
40ish Laps on the Russian Leather

I need to learn to count my laps, but having begun nicking up my Filly Strop I'm way more concerned with technique then counting the laps. It'll all come together I have no doubt.

Matt

Originally Posted by Mdixon2124

Why beat around the bush, me I go straight for the holy grail. I do appreciate you answering the question though, your explanation makes a lot of sense. Of course at this point I'm lucky to get a WTG pass accomplished and look half presentable afterwards.

I'll make an effort to get into the SOTD thread today or tomorrow. I usually shave when I get off of work(graveyards) so I have plenty of time but today I'm fairly beat down so shaving will have to wait until I wake up.

For my next question: How good of a shave can one expect to get going just WTG in one or two passes? Once I got accustomed to my DE I would do a 3 pass WTG XTG and ATG and end up with a good shave but probably never achieved BBS. And sometimes when I pushed out to my 3rd, ATG, pass I'd butcher my lower neck. At my current skill level with a straight I don't expect greatness but would like to know when I hit the point where WTG is about as good as it'll get.

Matt

Hmmmm. How good a shave from a single WTG? I'd say a very good shave. Clearly you're experienced in regards to the different passes, having used the DE for three passes. I'd stick to just WTG for maybe two months or so. In a way I sort of cheat, I wear a moustache, soul patch and goatee (all separate). I shave the goatee off the chin a while ago just so I could say I'd shaved the chin. I left it off for several weeks. So really, for me, it's less to shave. Why not shave with a single WTG with the straight and then a ATG with the DE? Dispense with the XTG. I myself never do a XTG.

Of course, the other thing to always consider is, are your passes ACTUALLY with against or across? My WTG is really just a North to South pass on the cheeks, with a sort of sweeping, scything motion on the lower cheeks and jawline, continuing with a N to S on the neck. Then I add more water to the lather to make it thinner and go for a S to N on the neck and lower cheeks.

BTW, I'd go for more stropping pre shave and less after. really, in my opinion, stropping after the shave is more about cleaning up the edge nicely. In my opinion, stropping pre-shave is about removing micro corrosion and edge alignment. I do 30/70 pre and 10/10 after (canvas/leather). Counting IS important, as it gives you an easy method for judgement, if you know what I mean. Reading about 'why pyrimids' in honing the other day I came across and answer (I think from Glen) about it being a good regimen for beginners; one could always hone 'by feel'. Counting your stropping laps when you're a beginner means you can judge if 20 laps (for instance) felt and better or worse than 50 for instance. I think it takes some time to hit on a perfect ratio for you.

Wow, ton of great info lets see if I can generate a little discussion.

Reference Passes:
With my DE the ATG pass is always where I'd butcher myself if butchering was going to happen. WTG and XTG always got me to a good/nice comfortable shave. When shaving N --> S it is WTG over most of my face and neck except on the right side of my neck where the hair grows Chin --> Ear so it's XTG there. Also the very lower part of the left side of my neck grows at a slight angle between N --> S and Chin --> Ear.

Technique:
"My WTG is really just a North to South pass on the cheeks, with a sort of sweeping, scything motion on the lower cheeks and jawline, continuing with a N to S on the neck."
I'm not familiar with the scything motion I'll do some searching.

Stropping:
I'll work on counting, and step up the laps pre-shave to see where that gets me. You feel 30/70 is a good starting point I assume?

Thank you for all the input. I really appreciate it.
Matt