Thread: A couple questions

Hello,

I am still very new to straight razor shaving (3 weeks since I started) and would like to ask a few questions I have had trouble finding answers to.

1: I shave every day and have been using isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip to clean the blade after shaving but I have noticed that even then that the part of the shank near the pivot has become murky and looks like its about to rust. How do I save this and keep it from happening in the future?

2: Although it has gotten better since I have started, I am still not getting a very close shave it seems and I keep nicking myself while I am shaving. Could someone give me some tips to keep from nicking or how to get a closer shave. I shave WTG, XTG, and ATG every morning and I am still ending up with some pretty large stubble.

Thank you for your help.

If you had just learned how to drive a car would you jump into an 18 wheeler? You need to take think slow and step by step until your skills improve in a natural way. 3 weeks in and all those strokes I think you are getting ahead of yourself and into trouble. I would back up and work on one stroke and one area of the face and then move on to another. Otherwise it's the usual stuff, watch your angle and pressure and work on stretching.

As far as the blade goes some oil on the blade will prevent rust. Alcohol will kill bugs but not rust.

Hi Wbeedle, and welcome to SRP!

About your rusting pivot, I just rinse my razors in very hot water, the whole blade and a little of the shank, but not the scales. That gets the metal hot enough that I'm sure it dries itself--but I fold a paper towel and work it between the scales and up into the pivot to draw out any water that might be hiding out in there. Once you've got that area clean and dry, put some Tuf-Glide oil on it. Tuf-Glide leaves a protective coating. It's what the Navy SEALS use for their goodies (or at least it claims to be).

If this is an older blade with historical goo stuck between the scales and the blade, you can dislodge some of that with dental floss and maybe scrub some out with a retired toothbrush.

For your closeness issues, it sounds like you're struggling with a dull blade. A proper shave-ready blade will take off your hairs when all you're trying to do is scrape away the lather. It shouldn't be so much work. Also, a dull blade is more likely to nick you, especially on ATG passes, because the hair, instead of being cut, merely guides the blade down into the skin. Skin is much easier to cut than hair.

Some diagnostic questions that will help us help you: What brand razor is this (some are proven stinkers), are you shaving on the factory edge (usually not truly shave-ready) or did the seller put a proper edge on it for you?

Are you stretching your skin while you shave? That's important; a good stretch stands the hairs up so the blade can have at 'em better. Are you happy with your lather? Do you strop every time you shave? That's also important--and it's gotta be done right, too, or you can actually damage the edge. You can research stropping here at our wiki, if you haven't looked into it already. Watch the videos, too.

Best wishes to you

Vintage Straight Razor | Memorial Day Sale Straight Razor and Pouch | VintageStraightRazor.com

roughkype,

This is the blade I have. It seems to work pretty well. Thank you for suggesting the Tuf-glide oil, I will make sure to get some. Before I put that on though, wouldn't I want to remove the murkiness/rust near the pivot? Also it says it was shave ready but it looks like I have not been stropping correctly (I do strop before every shave) so how would I bring the edge back? I do stretch the skin well and do lather well as far as I can tell. It seems my problems have been from not stropping correctly.

Thank you very much for your help.

wbeedle,

I just sent you a PM. Yes, I'd try to clean out the gunk near the pivot. You can use Flitz or Maas polish and some dental floss (the ribbon-shaped stuff would probably work best) to get into the space, then give it a good, high-flow hot-water rinse to make sure all the polishing grit is out of the area. Then try the Tuf-Glide.

If you've damaged the edge by stropping, it will probably need re-honing. I can give that a shot for you--just pay the return postage--if you'd like. See my PM for more details on that possibility.

Best wishes to you

Did you ever get that blade re-done? I have a similar one from the same site and I have read here that the brand is not very good. I believe what you have is a GB Buckingham...

Two suggestions:

1. The best way to prevent rust is to dry the blade, and then put a thin layer of mineral oil (_any_ mineral oil -- sewing-machine oil, "Corrosion Block", WD-40) on the blade. Spread the oil with a Q-tip or tissue.

The alcohol you're using will strip any residual oil from the blade surface. That's _not_ what you want.

"Utopian" -- a member here -- would mix 99% alcohol and 1% mineral oil (maybe 99.5% / 0.5%), and dip his blades in that. No rust.

Preventing rust at the pivot is difficult. Dry it well (tissue or Q-tip), then put on some oil.

2. If you're using a GD Buckingham razor, stop wasting time with it. Get a vintage shave-ready blade from the "Classifieds" or "Vendor's Corner" on this site, or from

Whipped Dog Straight Razor Shaving Equipment

Steel quality, and steel tempering, is invisible and forever. You're better off with a hundred-year-old blade that was made _right_, than with a new blade that was made _wrong_.

Charles

Welcome to SRP. All good advise above. Starting slow and in just one area is a really good one. Finish shaving with the razor you used before moving into straight razors until you are more proficient with the straight. Stretch your skin and keep the skin tight in the area you are currently shaving. If you don't keep the skin tight you may nick yourself. Keep an eye on your blade angle. It's tough until you develop a feel for it. Have someone watch you shave several times and mention to you when your angle is too steep or narrow while you are doing it. That worked for me. I also shave in the evening when I have more time to relax and pay attention to my technique. That may work for you until you develop your person technique and don't have to think about every stoke. Good luck!

If you have a sharp blade and use correct angles and shave WTG, XTG and ATG, your result should be BBS. You should be able to get a reasonably close shave with a good blade and one WTG pass. If you are finding that you are left with considerable stubble, either your technique or blade is flawed. The blade can be fixed easily. Technique takes time.

First I spray the whole blade with alcohol. Then I use a can of compressed air (like is used to clean computer keyboards) to blow out residual at the pivot, then I apply a drop or two of oil prior to storage in a silicon impregnated sleeve.

I am afraid that you cannot remove the rusting that has already begun without removing it from the scales and buffing it free. Some of the honing services will do this for a small fee.

Good luck and don't give up.