Thread: Beginner ATG shaving

Any advice on how to stretch for XTG on the upper lip? I've tried ATG both ways but still can't get close enough.

For a place or two on my lips, I both puff out my cheeks, and stretch the skin.

A couple thoughts:

-In order to shave ATG with any degree of comfort and little/no irritation your razor MUST be ultra sharp. If you only "think" your razor is sharp enough it probably isn't.

-Gradually, as your technique improves, you'll find that ATG is unnecessary for most of your face. XTG, along with good technique and a sharp razor, will provide a close enough shave without tempting the irritation that can come from shaving ATG.

The thing about stretching the lip is that you're not necessarily trying to stretch is as tight as possible, but rather, trying to stretch it in way that will make a section of it as flat as possible. For example: when I'm shaving the right side of my lip, I sort of purse my lips and draw the right corner of my mouth over towards the left. You'll just have to experiment, and find out what works for you. Good luck.

I'm really glad I found this thread, I was going to start a thread to ask how to do it.
I have seen lots of pictures and video's on how to shave against the grain, something which I have no problems with on my neck and jawline, but have so far not attempted it on the soft sides of my face for fear or getting the angle wrong and slicing into my face
I know some might say the odd nick is something of a rite of passage when using a straight, but I have had very few nicks/cuts and dont fancy a scar.
Any suggestions ?

I have somewhat the opposite problem you do my neck and chin is where I have trouble. The sides of your face should be pretty easy to do if you're already doing your jawline. Just take it in short strokes and you should be fine.

What would you define as ultrasharp and what do I do to get that edge? My razor is sharp enough to do a good job WTG but I find with ATG I have to use a little pressure to get the job done which may be the source of my discomfort.

Originally Posted by Lane

What would you define as ultrasharp and what do I do to get that edge? My razor is sharp enough to do a good job WTG but I find with ATG I have to use a little pressure to get the job done which may be the source of my discomfort.

I would define an ultra sharp razor as one that literally wipes hairs off your face without any discomfort, and one good test for this is how the razor shaves ATG. It doesn't have to be a full ATG pass either, it caan just be a "test spot" that you know has tough whiskers to cut. Now assuming proper technique is employed, if the razor shaves with little to no resistance ATG your razor is suitably sharp; if it tugs and pulls like mad ATG it isn't quite there. Keep it mind that a razor can shave very comfortably WTG and XTG but not ATG - this doesn't mean your razor isn't sharp, it means that it hasn't peaked at its full potential, that sense of ultra sharpness.

There are 2 ways of getting this kind of edge: through a honemeister (a good way of knowing what sharp really is) and through practice, practice, practice. And practice...

Originally Posted by Lane

My razor is sharp enough to do a good job WTG but I find with ATG I have to use a little pressure to get the job done which may be the source of my discomfort.

Pressure is not what makes straights shave better. This is a bad habit from cartridge shaving that is hard to drop, but needs to be dropped.

If you are having trouble with ATG, try stropping again before that pass. Adjust your angle so the razor is almost flat against the skin. Make sure you are stretching the skin in the direction that will raise the hairs up higher (stretching ATG basically), and use short, buffing, guillotine/scythe strokes.

Don't increase the pressure though.

Thank you. I ordered my razor pre-honed but I guess it wasn't by a honemeister. Know any good ones around Asheville, NC? I'd love to try a shave with what you're describing.