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  1. #1
    Just one more lap... FloorPizza's Avatar
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    Default Newb's hone selection

    I haven't even gotten my first straight razor yet. I'm kinda doing things backwards... I already have the hones picked out, and I'm still trying to decide on the razor.

    Anyway, I'm thinking of getting the DMT diamond hone (this one...Extra Extra Fine Diamond Stone to be exact), instead of the Norton 4k/8k. Over on B&B, Joel has an excellent newb's guide to straight razors. He mentions that the DMT hone cuts as fast as the 4k side of the Norton, but leaves equivalent scratch patterns as the 8k side of the Norton. So I'm thinking of getting the DMT. Is the DMT in the link the correct one? Is this a good plan? I'm thinking it might actually save some money, since I don't think I need to get a lapping stone. I don't need a lapping stone with this hone, right?

    After the DMT, I'm thinking one of Tony's four sided paddle strops with diamond pastes, then a traditional leather strop. Does this sound good? Also, help in deciding what size pastes would be good, too.

    I'm also going to pick up a half dozen 15 dollar straight razors from the local Cutlery Corner to practice on.

    Oh, one last thing... If I need to reset a bevel, is this hone going to be coarse enough, or should I consider a 1.2k hone for that kinda thing?

    Sorry if I'm rehashing questions that have been asked a hundred times.. I really have been doing alot of searching and reading.

    Any other sources of DMT stones I should look at?

    Sheesh... I think that's all the questions. Thanks for your patience.

  2. #2
    Senior Member AusTexShaver's Avatar
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    I'm not a fan of using diamond stones for anything other than lapping waterstones or removing LOTS of metal VERY quickly.

    They have very little feedback and are very unforgiving in the sense that with a natural stone such as a Coticule you can hone and hone and hone and not really do any damage but with a diamond stone just a few laps too many will cause problems such as overhoning and burrs as well as leaving an edge that looks like a minature hacksaw blade under a microscope.

    As nice is it would be to have one stone that does it all I'm afraid there isn't one.

    Now having said all that...you could use that stone for what you intend if you are careful and follow up on a pasted strop or something for the final finish.

  3. #3
    comfortably shaving chee16's Avatar
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    i'm pretty new to honing and straight razors in general but i have been doing a lot of reading from what i can gather the jump between a 1200 grit hone a 8000 is a bit to big of a gap. 1200 is what most use to set the bevel but they usually have a 4000 to step up to before the 8000. plus i think if you shop around you can find the Nortons for around $70. i would keep ready around in these forums as there is a lot to absorb. i'm still finding new stuff all the time.

    Tony's four sided pasted strop is actually my next purchase when i can find the cash as everything i have read suggested it is a great tool to bring back an edge. good price too. the progression from the 8k to the 4 sided strop to the hanging strop is the best set up for a newb with a razor that already has a bevel set but needs to be honed or a chip repaired. at least that is what i have been reading.

    sorry if this doesn't help.

  4. #4
    Just one more lap... FloorPizza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AusTexShaver View Post
    I'm not a fan of using diamond stones for anything other than lapping waterstones or removing LOTS of metal VERY quickly.

    They have very little feedback and are very unforgiving in the sense that with a natural stone such as a Coticule you can hone and hone and hone and not really do any damage but with a diamond stone just a few laps too many will cause problems such as overhoning and burrs as well as leaving an edge that looks like a minature hacksaw blade under a microscope.

    As nice is it would be to have one stone that does it all I'm afraid there isn't one.

    Now having said all that...you could use that stone for what you intend if you are careful and follow up on a pasted strop or something for the final finish.
    That right there is the plan, but now I'm concerned about the type of edge a diamond stone produces. Guess I'll do some more reading up on it. I was hoping that going to the four sided paddle strop and the diamond pastes would refine the edge correctly after the DMT stone....

  5. #5
    Life is short, filled with Stuff joke1176's Avatar
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    I have a DMT 1200, a DMT 8k, and various other hones... I hear a lot of variability regarding those DMT plates, some think the edge is fine, others say they tear up blades (especially before they are broken in).

    They don't need to be lapped, since they are a thin film of media embedded on a steel plate. Lapping is only for hones with dished surfaces, and that removes media until it's level. Not possible with a DMT, man.

    My DMT's were pretty rough at first, but I lightly lapped a few hones, and did a few razors, and they calmed down quite a bit.

    Personally, I have no problems going from the 1200 to the 8000 grit range, with any setup.

    Shoot, I have gone from the 1200 to finish honing without too many problems, it just took a little longer (but not much longer than using the 8k in between)

    I think you could do just fine with the 8k to pasted paddle routine. I would recommend the 1200 to pasted paddle routine though, you can get more mileage from that 1200 for restoring, and with light passes you can refresh a dull razor REALLY FAST.

    Of course, I started with the same ideas as you, and now I have a whole mess of hones.

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  7. #6
    Just one more lap... FloorPizza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joke1176 View Post
    I have a DMT 1200, a DMT 8k, and various other hones... I hear a lot of variability regarding those DMT plates, some think the edge is fine, others say they tear up blades (especially before they are broken in).

    They don't need to be lapped, since they are a thin film of media embedded on a steel plate. Lapping is only for hones with dished surfaces, and that removes media until it's level. Not possible with a DMT, man.

    My DMT's were pretty rough at first, but I lightly lapped a few hones, and did a few razors, and they calmed down quite a bit.

    Personally, I have no problems going from the 1200 to the 8000 grit range, with any setup.

    Shoot, I have gone from the 1200 to finish honing without too many problems, it just took a little longer (but not much longer than using the 8k in between)

    I think you could do just fine with the 8k to pasted paddle routine. I would recommend the 1200 to pasted paddle routine though, you can get more mileage from that 1200 for restoring, and with light passes you can refresh a dull razor REALLY FAST.

    Of course, I started with the same ideas as you, and now I have a whole mess of hones.
    Great info, thank you very much! I think I'll pick up the 1200 DMT as well, then. So the setup will be the 1200 DMT, the 8000 DMT, the four sided paddle strop, and a traditional leather strop. Hopefully that will tide me over until HAD sets in.

    Thanks again for the help, gents, it's much appreciated.

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