Thread: Wet behind the ears

Thank you Eddy, this is a fantastic contact for me

Thank you, that's good advice, I'll start with the metal polish and see how I go with that.
I'd better make sure my tetanus shot is up to date because I can be careful but you're absolutely correct about the hazard.

Thanks Scott, I think I might not start on this one because I'd hate to wreck it. Maybe I'll do this after I practice on some of the others

Originally Posted by GilbysGrandie

Thanks Porl, I won't be shaving myself, as it is a granddaughter I am. I said that with such an Irish accent, hehe.
But I will post some pics. Some feel balanced in the hand and some are beautiful in their simplicity or decoration and many seem to be German made. Most are in good shape and a couple have the blade eaten away with rust.
Cheers J

There's a great YouTube video "How to shave with a straight razor like a boss" that's a tutorial for the ladies that wish to shave their legs.

If you have some rusty razors there, it would be good to spray them with some WD40 and just leave it on until you're ready to clean them. Don't wash them with water just yet, or if you do, make sure you dry them really well. Once you think they're dry, dry your hands well and wipe them again with a dry paper towel. Get into the pivot area, stick the towel in there and get as much moisture out as you can. Then open them and let them air dry a few hours. This would be the short procedure - water+dish soap first, WD40 after they're dry, and leave them.

There's a routine I follow when I get a used, rusty, dirty razor. I will only do this if the razor's handle (scales) are plastic, celluloid, or some other man-made material. This is very important.

1. Hot water and dish soap first, scrub it down with a toothbrush, repeat if necessary, while it's still wet. Get in everywhere, between the scales, etc... until all the dirt is out. At this point, it doesn't matter what the scales are made of. Proceed to step 2 only in case of artificial materials (probably safer to say this here).

2. Dry the razor completely, and I move on to WD40. I don't skimp on it, I spray inside the pivot and work the pivot, clean off with a paper towel, then spray in again, work it again (as in opening and closing the razor), watching the black oxide/rust and dirt come out, until it comes out no longer. I'll also use a toothbrush here.

3. Then I'll wash it in dishsoap again, to degrease it. If I'm happy, I'll just dry it, again, really thoroughly, then spray some more WD into the pivot and leave it alone for a few days. During this time, WD40 will do it's thing, so once again, I'll need to clean the pivot (mostly) to get all that newly released rust out. Clean and dry with a paper towel.

After this, there are two paths: either oil the blade with something like Balistol (mineral oil) and leave it alone, or as mentioned, get some metal polish and work on the steel. Polishing after WD40 treatment will be easier and more effective, and in fact, polishers like MAAS do like some lubrication - they will be more efficient. I'd suggest wearing latex gloves, as this can get quite messy.

All this I described here is non-invasive and won't damage, or compromise your razors, just get them as clean as possible. Well.... There is the caveat of scales material - You need to know what they're made of, before you use greases and oils... and be careful, as light, porous materials such as bone, can and will discolor under influence of mineral oils.

The forum is a wealth of knowledge, this is just a very small part of it. Hope it helps! Make sure you look around, search and read some more. Welcome aboard, and I hope your men start using those razors some day (then send them here).