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Thread: To put life back into the blade

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    Default To put life back into the blade

    Hey all,
    Need a little help. Here it goes:
    I have an old j.a. Henckles straight razor that is in very good condition except for the steel having minor rust and some tarnish I want to remove (razor is scratch free and I'd like to keep it that way!) so I need some help on both removing the rust/tarnish and to make the blade beautifully shine like new. So here is what I'm thinking-
    Begin with calcium lime remover (CLR) for the initial cleaning. Then, use a brass wire hand brush if necessary, to remove whatever is left. And last, use Flitz metal polish to give it a real nice shine. Does this sound like a good way to go?
    Oh, and I'm not interested in wheels, machines or anything like that. Just by hand, no power tools.
    I included photos. Hope they help.
    Thanks!

  2. #2
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    I've never tried the method you've described but I have my doubts about it being sufficient. For hand work, I used progressively finer grits of w/d sandpaper ranging in small increments from 180 to 3000 with 3in1 oil.
    Kristian and Chevhead like this.

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    Senior Member Willisf's Avatar
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    I tend to stay away from chemicals. I use sand paper, steel wool, and MAAS ( I know a chemical of sorts).
    Never used anything else.
    Chevhead and MW76 like this.
    Is it over there or over yonder?

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    Okay, alright. I'd be open for that. Could you tell me more about it, or tell me where I can learn this method?

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    Senior Member rodb's Avatar
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    Before you try sandpaper, try 0000 steel wool and metal polish (Maas, Blue Magic, Simichrome etc). It might surprise you what that will do

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    Utopian (01-17-2016)

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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    I forgot about the steel wool. That's a better way for a beginning restorer to start.
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    outback (01-17-2016)

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    Senior Member Kristian's Avatar
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    I agree with Utopian. And it's really not that difficult. I'll put the razor on a leather pad, an polish it with water sand paper grit 180 grid. Remove all the rust and see if there's any deep pitting. Then 400 grid, 800 grid and finally 1200 grid.

    It's hard work and takes some hours of labor! Don't proceed ups the grit until the blade is as good it can get.

    When you are finished with 1200 grid I'll take it to my cottenwheel buffer and polish it. I know some folks hand polish their blades, but I feel it takes forever.

    If you buffer-polish it, cool the blade whenever it starts to feel warm. You don't want to ruin the tempering.

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    Truth is weirder than any fiction.. Grazor's Avatar
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    DON'T start at 180 grit, besides some hone wear it doesn't look that bad. robd's suggestion of trying steel wool and metal polish is a sound method for a blade in that condition.
    Euclid440 likes this.
    Into this house we're born, into this world we're thrown ~ Jim Morrison

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    outback (01-17-2016)

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    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Before steel wool, just try metal polish......please!!
    Then if that doesn't work, bring the steel wool into play. Looks like what rust is there will come off with a thumbnail. JMHO
    Mike

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    Senior Member rodb's Avatar
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    It's like the medical quote "First do no harm". Start with the least invasive method and work back from there.


    Quote Originally Posted by outback View Post
    Before steel wool, just try metal polish......please!!
    Then if that doesn't work, bring the steel wool into play. Looks like what rust is there will come off with a thumbnail. JMHO
    outback likes this.

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