Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13
Like Tree11Likes

Thread: Hones/bevel setting

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Arbroath, Scotland
    Posts
    7
    Thanked: 0

    Default Hones/bevel setting

    Hi everybody and thanks for the welcomes in the beginners intros.

    I have the following stones 'Ice Bear' 800 and 6k Japanese water stones, Norton 4k/8k, Naniwa 10k and a Belgian coticule.

    I want to try and set the bevel on several old razors I have.

    I suspect the 800 would be ok for this but then its quite a big jump to the Norton 4k and on and up to shave ready.

    Can anyone advise please.

  2. #2
      Lynn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    St. Louis, Missouri, United States
    Posts
    8,454
    Thanked: 4941
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default

    The 800 should be OK for bevel setting. I would only recommend firm pressure. Going from there to the 4K should be no problem.

    Hone on.........

  3. #3
    Ecl
    Ecl is offline
    Does this title make me look fat? Ecl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Medieval Kansas
    Posts
    148
    Thanked: 27

    Default

    The 800 would do it, and that Norton is effectively a 2.5K/5K when converted to JIS grit ratings, so you're very well set from bevel to polish.

  4. #4
    Moderator rolodave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Racine, WI USA
    Posts
    7,530
    Thanked: 1927
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Welcome to the forum.

    I would suggest you get with an experienced honer before possibly damaging your blades. Pics would help.

    Here is a link to find members in your area. Putting your town in Scotland would help.

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/memberlist.php?do=search
    RezDog likes this.
    If you don't care where you are, you are not lost.

  5. #5
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Pompano Beach, FL
    Posts
    4,014
    Thanked: 631

    Default

    Don't know what the experts will tell you. I set the bevel on 300 diamond hone then 200 diamond hone. Now I go straight to a 6000 Japanese water stone to a 12,000 Japanese oil stone. Finish on canvas strop with paste then leather strop. Never had a problem. Let's face it, barbers in the 1700,S & 1800,S I am sure only had a few homes unlike today.

  6. #6
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    2,697
    Thanked: 830
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Hi '57,

    'Glad you've chosen quality for your shaves. It really is a rush of excitement.

    In my excitement, I also tried to learn how to shave with a straight at the same time I learned how to hone. I can't say I'd recommend it to anyone I liked. I'm guessing from your join date that you're new to straight shaving. If that's not true - pls. ignore this post.

    You'll see alot of posts that recommend having your early edges honed by a pro. I would tend to agree. My earliest edges that 'shaved' at all - were rather carnivorous. The shaves were a challenge - to stay bloodless. That's why I'm called Pinklather. I bought a new blade that came honed and it flat changed my world -as far as shaving and honing went. It was way more sharp than I'd been able to do - but more - it was SMOOTH. Smooth was a very new attribute for me and I launched on the quest for the magic stone that gave this wonderful edge. That quest wasn't not particularly well aimed either, but that's another story.

    I'd recommend the pro edge. But knowing I ignored this advice also, I would strongly urge you to find an experienced person to spend some time with on developing a sound stroke. The sound stroke is alot harder to develope than it sounds. I always remember Lynn describing this to anther new shaver: "when you learn what a 'no pressure' stroke is..." Next, the sound bevel. At this point, you don't have the 'feel' or skills to know what that is, so I'd recommend having an experienced guy (pro or other) set a bevel on a 2nd or 3rd blade so you can know how the blade is supposed to feel when riding the stone normally. Keep one or two blades that have been honed by a pro (or that level of quality) so you have a known standard against which to measure your progress. I paid to have one honed for this purpose & don't regret it.

    Next big error for me was thinking I could recognize a blade that was in sound shape at the antique shows or shops. (I don't do fleabay) Avoid these like the plague for now. They involve restoration grinding that you'll master - but not for a while - like 6-9 months.

    5 yrs & just under 500 blades honed - I still concentrate on a sound bevel & a sound stroke. I chase the elusive perfect bevel. If you were local, I'd say c'mon over & we'd have some fun w/ the stones. I've done that with at least a dozen guys - many of whom I expect will surpass my skill level. I hope they do and go on to teach many others.

    I hope this will not be discouraging, but help you avoid some frustration and blood loss. The skills will come, and you'll be on top of the world when your first decent edges happen. You'll have every right to be proud & I'll be cheering.

  7. #7
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    6,553
    Thanked: 3215

    Default

    Yes, you should be fine, drop the 6k and Coticule from the progression, you will not need them to lean to hone. The coticule will add a large unknown to your honing education. The 8 & 10k are more than capable of producing a fine shaving edge.

    Get some good lighted magnification and look at the edge first. Unless chipped they can be touched up with the 10 or 8K. The best way to learn to hone is to maintain a razor and progressively use more aggressive stones as needed or as said, find a mentor for hands on training.

    Learn to hone first then, add Natural Stones. The Coticule can produce a nice edge, but is not as consistent a finisher in the hands of a novice. Learning any natural stone is much different from synthetic stones of known grit.

    If the edge is in good shape and the bevels are flat, the 4k will easily re-set a bevel and save you a lot of work. Try it first, you can always go to the 800 if needed.
    eddy79 likes this.

  8. #8
    Senior Member blabbermouth eddy79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Gosnells Perth Western Australia
    Posts
    7,041
    Thanked: 656

    Default

    My suggestion if you care about the razors, heirlooms etc, then get something else to practice and get a pro honing. Start with 1 razor and get the bevel right and move forward from there. You will grind away far more metal than necessary so tape the spine and take it slow. Good luck
    rolodave likes this.
    My wife calls me......... Can you just use Ed

  9. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Arbroath, Scotland
    Posts
    7
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Ok thanks Lynn, most of the razors I've got have different signs and degrees of wear and some don't seem to have any bevel at all and basically blunter than spatula !!! Whats the best course of action with these ? Is it worthwhile to bother with them or bin??
    Quote Originally Posted by Lynn View Post
    The 800 should be OK for bevel setting. I would only recommend firm pressure. Going from there to the 4K should be no problem.

    Hone on.........

  10. #10
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Arbroath, Scotland
    Posts
    7
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    ok many thanks to all for the advice.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •