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Thread: Newbie Needs Opinion

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    Senior Member Chinaski's Avatar
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    Default Newbie Needs Opinion

    Hello everyone,
    I am a newbie in here and I have some questions to ask. I bought a SR couple months ago and tried it, went okey. I hadn't used straight in a row until last weekend(I do now), I had been using straight once a week instead(I've been a DE shaver for nearly one year). Up to now I have approx. 10 shaves under my belt. I can shave without much problem so far, but I decided to use only straight from now on(not even touch up with my DE).
    My technique has improving and I can get DFS everytime, one WTG+2XTGs are enough most of the time.
    My first problem is when I go XTG(ear to chin) I always get small nicks and sometimes get small cuts because of wrong grip/pressure combo(I think). I watched so many videos and read dozens of journals but still have not found the right grip for XTG especially in jawline. Can anyone advise me on that?
    Second question is I have three straight razors from different sources(all came shave ready) I like using all of them in rotation but all of them has different characteristics, one of them is quarter hollow/near wedge and the others are hollow and the edges are different. Shall I shave with one only until I get used to it and then switch to others? or It does not make a huge different to getting used to straight shaving you may say? Because I want to use all of them in rotation to maintain their edges for a relatively long time an I love all my razors.

    Thanks in advance.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Substance's Avatar
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    G'day and welcome to SRP
    Xtg try using less pressure, the theory is to shave the lather off not the hair or skin and keep your skin stretched tight helps a lot
    I only shave right handed so I use some over arm monkey looking strokes sometimes it is all a matter of finding your own preference via trial and error I think, I also use a straight Kamisori type grip for my left side neck to jaw area also.
    When I started I used 1 srt8 for a good week or so (I shave every 2nd day) to get used to it then move to the next for,similar number of shave worked best for me
    Either way take your time and enjoy the learning curve
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    Senior Member Chinaski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Substance View Post
    G'day and welcome to SRP
    Xtg try using less pressure, the theory is to shave the lather off not the hair or skin and keep your skin stretched tight helps a lot
    I only shave right handed so I use some over arm monkey looking strokes sometimes it is all a matter of finding your own preference via trial and error I think, I also use a straight Kamisori type grip for my left side neck to jaw area also.
    When I started I used 1 srt8 for a good week or so (I shave every 2nd day) to get used to it then move to the next for,similar number of shave worked best for me
    Either way take your time and enjoy the learning curve
    Thanks for the reply, I will try different grips with almost no pressure when I go XTG pass.
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    Plausibly implausible carlmaloschneider's Avatar
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    Hi. Sounds like you're doing well. Have you mapped your beard growth? It's possible what you think is XTG is actually ATG. Try very short very light strokes. I don't normally do a XTG pass; normally it's just a WTG. At times it's a WTG and a ATG. For the ATG pass I hold the razor very lightly, with just two fingers; and use very short very light buffing strokes. I also use a weaker lather for the second pass when I do one; I add more water to the original lather mix. This allows a 'slicker' lather. It's actually possible that by the time you come to do your XTG pass your lather has thickened a little; so try adding a little bit of water.

    I like the idea of rotating razors; I rotate 6 generally; using each one once a week. However, imagine learning to drive a car and using a different car each day. It'd be confusing, wouldn't it? I'd choose one razor for now (the one you find easiest to strop and shave with) and use that until you feel you have enough confidence to start using different razors.

    To get the right grip you really just need to grab a dinner knife; stand in front of the mirror and experiment. Don't be afraid to make up your own grip. Also, if you find a grip that seems a bit weird, don't hesitate to post a photo. We may have tried that grip already and be able to advise on the positives and negatives.

    Carl
    Last edited by carlmaloschneider; 08-21-2014 at 09:01 AM.
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    Senior Member Chinaski's Avatar
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    Thank you Carl, you are definitely right about face mapping and I will be more careful about beard grow directions. And I thought same as you, I need to pick one of my razors and go on with it for a while.

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    Senior Member JTmke's Avatar
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    My beard grows In all sorts of crazy directions. XTG, ATG, and WTG without changing the travel of the blade. The key I have found for the cheeks is proper stretching. Not only do you need your skin tight but flat. I pull my ear for the first inch then with fingers that have just rubbed an alum block pull up and away from travel. Light to no pressure strokes. I also will open my Jaw and use that to pull skin taught.

    As far as different razors go. The _ADs got me early. Life would have been simpler had I purchased 2 if the same razors but where is the fun in that.
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    Senior Member kwlfca's Avatar
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    I echo Carl's thoughts on growth direction.
    I personally don't do against the grain on my face. I usually do (unless I'm just doing a quick one pass shave) a pass with the grain, and then a with the grain/diagonal J-type stroke from my sideburns (just above mid-ear) to my chin, and then an across the grain from chin to ear on one side, and from ear to chin on the other (that's the direction that my hair grows).
    My neck is a little different however. A downstroke on the left side will get my skin smooth, however to get that same smoothness, I need to do an upstroke on the right side. That's the only upstroke style against the grain that I do, and only because I have to. I say "upstroke style against the grain" because growth direction is a factor in what's actually against the grain.

    Don't get stuck on feeling like you have to do against the grain like it's a formula...there's no universal WTG+XTG+ATG=CORRECTSHAVE.

    I also echo using the razor that you have best results with until you have enough shaves under your belt to feel more comfortable with a straight. It will help you better focus on technique. Things like skin stretching, prep and stropping are all essential.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth OCDshaver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chinaski View Post
    Hello everyone,
    I am a newbie in here and I have some questions to ask. I bought a SR couple months ago and tried it, went okey. I hadn't used straight in a row until last weekend(I do now), I had been using straight once a week instead(I've been a DE shaver for nearly one year). Up to now I have approx. 10 shaves under my belt. I can shave without much problem so far, but I decided to use only straight from now on(not even touch up with my DE).
    My technique has improving and I can get DFS everytime, one WTG+2XTGs are enough most of the time.
    My first problem is when I go XTG(ear to chin) I always get small nicks and sometimes get small cuts because of wrong grip/pressure combo(I think). I watched so many videos and read dozens of journals but still have not found the right grip for XTG especially in jawline. Can anyone advise me on that?
    Second question is I have three straight razors from different sources(all came shave ready) I like using all of them in rotation but all of them has different characteristics, one of them is quarter hollow/near wedge and the others are hollow and the edges are different. Shall I shave with one only until I get used to it and then switch to others? or It does not make a huge different to getting used to straight shaving you may say? Because I want to use all of them in rotation to maintain their edges for a relatively long time an I love all my razors.

    Thanks in advance.
    BTW, your first name isn't Henry is it? LOL

  13. #9
    Senior Member Chinaski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTmke View Post
    My beard grows In all sorts of crazy directions. XTG, ATG, and WTG without changing the travel of the blade. The key I have found for the cheeks is proper stretching. Not only do you need your skin tight but flat. I pull my ear for the first inch then with fingers that have just rubbed an alum block pull up and away from travel. Light to no pressure strokes. I also will open my Jaw and use that to pull skin taught.

    As far as different razors go. The _ADs got me early. Life would have been simpler had I purchased 2 if the same razors but where is the fun in that.
    Thanks my friend, I have some tricks to try thanks to all of you. Skin stretching and flattening is little bit difficult because I have big cheekbones. I will give it a try. And you are right about "Life would have been simpler had I purchased 2 if the same razors but where is the fun in that."

  14. #10
    Senior Member Chinaski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwlfca View Post
    I echo Carl's thoughts on growth direction.
    I personally don't do against the grain on my face. I usually do (unless I'm just doing a quick one pass shave) a pass with the grain, and then a with the grain/diagonal J-type stroke from my sideburns (just above mid-ear) to my chin, and then an across the grain from chin to ear on one side, and from ear to chin on the other (that's the direction that my hair grows).
    My neck is a little different however. A downstroke on the left side will get my skin smooth, however to get that same smoothness, I need to do an upstroke on the right side. That's the only upstroke style against the grain that I do, and only because I have to. I say "upstroke style against the grain" because growth direction is a factor in what's actually against the grain.

    Don't get stuck on feeling like you have to do against the grain like it's a formula...there's no universal WTG+XTG+ATG=CORRECTSHAVE.

    I also echo using the razor that you have best results with until you have enough shaves under your belt to feel more comfortable with a straight. It will help you better focus on technique. Things like skin stretching, prep and stropping are all essential.
    You are right, there is no certain correct shave method and everyone consider to their skin's health.
    I don't do ATG anymore since I got great close shaves with my DE and I don't get stuck the BBS everyday(used to/not anymore). So far so good WTG+XTG passes are enough but I can't live with only WTG because I'm heavy bearded man.
    I will continue to do with the grain and then try to correct stretching and right direction for across the grain.
    Thanks for everything again.

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