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  1. #11
    Senior Member nickyspaghetti's Avatar
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    thanks, i have a microscope in the post, but i have since read the ebay traders feedback to reveal that my item is shipped from hong kong, so i could be waiting a while! In the mean time i think i shall keep my remaining razors in the drawer and be very careful with the ones that shave ok, so that i can examine all when this microscope arrives!

  2. #12
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    I'm not sure of the grits on my stones (coarse synthetic, medium and fine Arkansas, and Lithide), but I'm pretty sure the coarse one is far below 4k. I didn't realize one had to move to such a high grit before establishing the initial bevel. Thank you, Randy! No wonder I've been getting nowhere.

    How does one tell when a good initial bevel has been established? Should it already be popping hairs? I've found the thumbpad test less than reliable, winding up with a lot of wire edges from the overly coarse stone.

  3. #13
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Feng_Li View Post
    I'm not sure of the grits on my stones (coarse synthetic, medium and fine Arkansas, and Lithide), but I'm pretty sure the coarse one is far below 4k. I didn't realize one had to move to such a high grit before establishing the initial bevel. Thank you, Randy! No wonder I've been getting nowhere.

    How does one tell when a good initial bevel has been established? Should it already be popping hairs? I've found the thumbpad test less than reliable, winding up with a lot of wire edges from the overly coarse stone.
    For me, an initial bevel is established when the thumbnail test is passed with a smooth, even bite/draw for the full length of the blade. Under the microscope, 30X, the bevel will be all one color and texture for the full length and width of the blade.

    Two colors on the bevel, with the darkest one being along the edge, indicate two seperate bevels. If there are different textures at the heal and toe or anywhere along the bevel this means that your not making even contact with the hone.

    BTW, a coarse hone will not leave a wire edge but rather a ragged edge.

    I suggest you talk to MParker about which of the Arkansas stones to use to establish the bevel. Be sure and keep the surface of the Arkansas refreshed. A;lso, you may want to stop using your coarse stone and use a 1000 grit sandpaper instead as a means of removing old, oxidised steel and visible nicks.


    Hope this helps,
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  4. #14
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    Guys

    I am just about to go for the stage one on an e-bayer. What pattern do I use on the 1000 sand paper, edge first or trailing...I know...dumb question...

  5. #15
    Razorsmith JoshEarl's Avatar
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    Use good quality wet-dry paper, and stick it to a smooth, flat surface. Use a regular honing motion--edge first.

    Good luck!

    Josh

  6. #16
    Electric Razor Aficionado
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    I'd also like to remind the guys just starting to play with ebay razors that patience is critical. It can take a surprising amount of time to bring one of these back to shaving sharp - it really makes you appreciate just how hard this steel is and how terribly slow these hones really are. I think one of the advantages that experience gives you is appreciation of this fact so you don't get frustrated when you run into problems. Also the confidence to know that you can actually do it with enough time and careful enough attention. Then it becomes less of a "problem" and more of a "puzzle", and puzzles are a lot more fun to solve.

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