Thread: First restoration advice/information

Hi,

This is my first time posting. I have been using a gillette safety razor for over three years now and recently decided to explore the possibility of using a straight razor. While I don't mind investing in having a razor professionally restored (even with a full razor restore/replate I had done on my safety razor I still figure I am $50 up over the past 3 years vs the cost of mach fusion blades.

Earlier this week, I started reading about straight razor choices and then I had the opportunity to look at one yesterday. I recognized that it was made in Sheffield and that the edge of the blade didn't seem to have much damage. It was only $5 so I thought I would take a shot (at the worst I have a neat piece to stick on a bookshelf). Below I have included some pictures. I have read around on some of the articles for restoration and a lot of the time the authors suggested posting on the forum for specific advice. I would appreciate any guidance or advice on how to restore this myself. I am looking for a useable razor and I am not concerned about augmenting or damaging its value. Links to helpful articles or other forum posts would be very welcome.

The razor is a Wade and Butcher and the etching on the blade (didn't capture well in the pictures) says Wade & Butcher on the left and Sheffield on the right. In between it says corporate mark with an arrow, there is a B in a circle at its tail and a cross at its head. On the tang there is the same mark, Wade & Butcher Sheffield England. Any information on the razor (date range) would be welcome. I know W&B made razors from the late 1800s to the mid-1900s but I don't know if there is a way to get the dates tighter.

Thanks for taking a look!

Cam

That looks like a razor with some potential! Did you try honing it first to see if it shaves well? Seeing as it's a W&B, I guess it will.

I suggest starting out first with metal polish, clearing away the active (brown) rust to see what's what. You'll find that it will make a large difference, especially if you are willing to polish for half an hour straight or with a Dremel polishing wheel (I like this option, but mind the heat!). Note that this will remove the nice etch.

After that, get sandpaper ranging from 80 to 1500 grit, car shops usually carry the high grits for polishing. You will spend most of the time with the coarstest grits. Once you are happy with how must rust and pitting has been removed, move on to higher grits to sand out the scratches you left. Patience is key with hand sanding. Also, when you notice a little scratch from a lower grit, sand it out before moving on to higher grits, as it will be more visible when you're finished.


I suggest not unpinning the scales, unless you plan on replacing them, because of the crack at the pivot hole. When repinning, this crack may become bigger and mess things up.

Good luck, and don't forget to make many pictures!

The rust will come off. You'll lose what's left ot the gold wash (yellow paint?) On the blade. There will be pitting left behind, likely too deep to remove easily.

More importantly, I worry that there might be some pitting deep into the bevel. I'd do a little honing on it to see how bad that is before putting much time into it.

Originally Posted by Laurens

That looks like a razor with some potential! Did you try honing it first to see if it shaves well? Seeing as it's a W&B, I guess it will.

I am very new at this. I wasn't expecting to buy a razor so quickly, it was just super cheap so I thought I would take a chance. I don't own a hone or strop yet. I went around to a local antique shop and found a "Barber's Friend" hone for $15 which I might pick up (it looked circular, I haven't seen anything like it online). I know I also need a strop and I would appreciate suggestions on that. Would it be better to buy a new one or something used?

Originally Posted by Laurens

I suggest starting out first with metal polish, clearing away the active (brown) rust to see what's what. You'll find that it will make a large difference, especially if you are willing to polish for half an hour straight or with a Dremel polishing wheel (I like this option, but mind the heat!). Note that this will remove the nice etch.

Would just the metal polish remove the etch or only the dremeling? I don't mind if the gold paint comes off but would like to try to preserve the etch. Will any metal polish work or should I be looking for something in particular.

Originally Posted by HNSB

More importantly, I worry that there might be some pitting deep into the bevel. I'd do a little honing on it to see how bad that is before putting much time into it.

What should I be looking for when I hone. Since I am new to this what I might try is following an online guide for honing and then throw up some pictures.

Thanks to you both.

Originally Posted by campbellh

I am very new at this. I wasn't expecting to buy a razor so quickly, it was just super cheap so I thought I would take a chance. I don't own a hone or strop yet. I went around to a local antique shop and found a "Barber's Friend" hone for $15 which I might pick up (it looked circular, I haven't seen anything like it online). I know I also need a strop and I would appreciate suggestions on that. Would it be better to buy a new one or something used?

Ah, now you're making it quite tough on yourself! I strongly suggest buying a Norton 4000/8000 combination, find the thread here about its application and learn how to use it. Setting a bevel after restoring a blade can easily take half an hour on a 4K, and there is no point in attempting to do so on anything finer than that. Also, get a cheap second hand strop and take your time (at least a few months) to learn how to strop. You will cut the strop a few times, hence a cheap second hand

Originally Posted by campbellh

Would just the metal polish remove the etch or only the dremeling? I don't mind if the gold paint comes off but would like to try to preserve the etch. Will any metal polish work or should I be looking for something in particular.

Both would remove the gold paint very quickly. The etch will last quite a while when doing this by hand, Dremeling is much faster and less controllable. Many here suggest MAAS polish. We don't have that in the Netherlands, I just went with a well-known and yet cheap brand and get great results.

Originally Posted by campbellh

What should I be looking for when I hone. Since I am new to this what I might try is following an online guide for honing and then throw up some pictures.

Honing is quite an art on itself. Follow many guides and watch many videos and try try try!

If you have the budget for it, buy another razor (one in good condition: it should have little to no rust, none at the edge and little, even hone marks along the spine and bevel) and have it professionally honed, for instance by any of the members that offer honing service on this forum. That will give you a good reference for your own honing skills. Keep in mind: there is a slow learning curve for both honing and shaving!

Keep us posted and good luck

Thank you so much cudarunner!!!

cudarunner very generously agreed to give my razor a light cleaning and then took the time to hone the edge so it is shaveable. I just gave it my first run a few minutes ago and it didn't go to badly at all (the reason it wasn't excellent was certainly because this is my first time with a straight razor... I can tell there is quite the learning curve).

Please see the pictures below. In maybe 6 months - a year, if I am comfortable using it and I find it is working for me I will probably get the scales replaced. They are a little rickety but I have no real need to replace them right now other than aesthetics.



Thanks again cudarunner!!!!

Is there anyway to determine the approximate age of the razor?

Originally Posted by campbellh

Thank you so much cudarunner!!!

cudarunner very generously agreed to give my razor a light cleaning and then took the time to hone the edge so it is shaveable. I just gave it my first run a few minutes ago and it didn't go to badly at all (the reason it wasn't excellent was certainly because this is my first time with a straight razor... I can tell there is quite the learning curve).

Please see the pictures below. In maybe 6 months - a year, if I am comfortable using it and I find it is working for me I will probably get the scales replaced. They are a little rickety but I have no real need to replace them right now other than aesthetics.

Thanks again cudarunner!!!!

Is there anyway to determine the approximate age of the razor?

Campbell,

The privilege was all mine!! I spent less than an hour cleaning up your razor, the honing also went very well and quite quickly, being a heavier grind I was expecting a long haul, but again the Razor Gods were looking out for me!

I feel very blessed, not only do you like my work cleaning it up, but because I provided you with your first truly shave ready razor for your first straight razor shave!

I'm as giddy as a young child on Christmas morning!

I'm so glad you like it!!

Yes shaving with a straight has many trials and tribulations and there is a Huge Learning Curve. However once at least semi-mastered, is a whole new/old and better way to shave!!

Mana, Neil or others may be of help dating your blade.

Again, it was my pleasure!

Hi Cudarunner

Great job Cudarunner. Your a classy guy.

Luis

This is above and beyond.

Awesome!

Michael

Originally Posted by Luis

Hi Cudarunner

Great job Cudarunner. Your a classy guy.

Luis

He is, indeed. That's a fact.